Materials
- Hook
- Standard curved emerger hook, #12–22; Orvis uses a Dai-Riki #125 and demonstrates #16
- Bead
- 3/32-inch silver tungsten bead for the demonstrated #16; pearl glass is a documented separately weighted alternative
- Thread, underbody, and hot spot
- Red 70-denier or 8/0 tying thread
- Tail
- Approximately six natural pheasant-tail fibers
- Abdomen and wing case
- One strand of wide pearl Flashabou
- Thorax
- Tan-rainbow Sow-Scud dubbing; plain rainbow is a documented alternative
- Finish
- Head cement applied sparingly to the completed thread collar
Steps
- Mash the barb when required for the bead and current rules, slide the silver tungsten bead onto the curved #16 example hook small-hole first, and secure the hook in the vise.
- Start red thread directly behind the bead and carry it in controlled wraps down to about the hook point.
- Align roughly six pheasant-tail fibers, measure a tail about one hook gap long, secure it on top of the shank, and bind the fibers down into the bend before trimming the excess.
- Tie one three- to four-inch section of wide pearl Flashabou behind the bead, bind it rearward to the tail, and return the thread forward to create a smooth red underbody.
- Wind the Flashabou forward in overlapping turns to form the pearl abdomen, secure it behind the bead, fold it back, and move the thread rearward enough to reserve a correctly proportioned wing case.
- Dub a thin noodle of tan-rainbow Sow-Scud dubbing and build a compact thorax approximately the bead's size without obscuring the abdomen.
- Pull the reserved Flashabou forward over the thorax, secure it behind the bead, fold it back, lock it with thread, and trim the material close.
- Build the red collar with two controlled whip finishes, trim the thread, clear the eye, and add one small drop of head cement to the thread wraps.
Tying source: Rainbow Warrior Pattern and Tying Instructions ↗