Materials
- Hook
- 2X-heavy, 2X-long nymph or streamer hook, sizes 10–20
- Bead
- Gold Cyclops-style bead sized to the hook
- Underbody
- .015 lead wire in the reviewed recipe; use a lawful nonlead substitute where required or preferred
- Thread
- Black 8/0 or 70-denier thread
- Tails
- Paired brown goose biots
- Abdomen
- Brassie-size natural copper Ultra Wire
- Thorax
- Peacock herl
- Wing case
- Black Thin Skin below a narrower strip of saltwater-size pearl Flashabou
- Legs
- Speckled brown hen-hackle fibers
- Finish
- Five-minute epoxy over the completed wing case
Steps
- Seat a correctly sized gold bead behind the eye, add the reviewed lead or lawful nonlead underbody, and cover the transition with a smooth black-thread base.
- Carry the thread to the bend and tie paired brown goose biots so they form a centered, evenly splayed V.
- Secure brassie-size copper wire along the shank and build a smooth tapered underbody that will not leave gaps in the wire abdomen.
- Wrap the copper wire forward in tight touching turns to form a dense segmented abdomen, then secure and remove it cleanly.
- Tie a black Thin Skin strip and a slightly narrower pearl-Flashabou strip at the rear of the thorax area so both can later fold forward.
- Build a compact peacock-herl thorax behind the bead, keeping the hook gap and eye open.
- Tie speckled brown hen fibers on each side as sparse rear-swept legs.
- Pull the Thin Skin over the thorax, then the pearl flash over its center; secure both immediately behind the bead and trim the waste.
- Whip finish behind the bead, clear the eye and hook gap, then apply a controlled coat of five-minute epoxy over the wing case without flooding the legs or eye.
Tying sources: How to Tie the Copper John ↗, Copper John Barr's ↗